Makeup 101: How to Shape & Take care your Eyebrow hair

So you want to try out various eyebrow style and fancy new eyebrow makeup trend, but first, you need to learn to form the basic brow shape that makes you look better without any makeup at all.

Without a good basic brow style, your attempt to get fancier brow could end up being a complete disaster. Trimming or shaping your brow can be tricky if you do not know the basic theory about which brow hair to keep or to trim away.

Table of content

Professional tips on how to find your ideal eyebrow shapes
Eyebrow shape theory basic: where to keep and where to trim
Step by step guide to Shaping your eyebrow for beginner
Before you start: What you need
Step 1: Comb your brow, and tame it with screw brush
Step 2: Design your brow shape following the golden rule
Step #3: Shave the unnecessary part of your brow
– – *CAUTION TIP* You should not shave the top of your brow
Step #4: Cut long eyebrow hair
Step #5: Complete!

Professional tips on how to find your ideal eyebrow shapes

In this article, Namiko Fujiyama, AJJ Inc writer / former developer of the Japanese cosmetic brand will teach you how to shape your eyebrows like a professional makeup artist.

Eyebrow shape theory basic: where to keep and where to trim

Eyebrow shape should follow your natural facial line. More specifically, It should follow a facial muscle called the “Corrugator supercilii muscle”. Yes, the name itself sounds scary enough, but it is just a muscle underneath your brows, and your eyebrow naturally follows it.

When the top of the brows are excessively trimmed, this muscle stands out too much and make it look too unnatural. So, let’s start by knowing your facial bone structure, facial muscle and how to design your brows.

 

What is your ideal shape of eyebrow? - Photo by Eric Ward
What is your ideal shape of the eyebrow? – Photo by Eric Ward

 

Step by step guide to Shaping your eyebrow for beginner

Keep in mind, shaping your brows is not about turning it into something totally new.Steps below is to help you bring out your natural beauty by carefully shaping your eyebrows.

Before you start: What you need

eyebrow design theory step #0
Designing your eyebrow starts with careful planning.
  • Time required: 10 min
  • A Screw brush
  • Eyebrow pencil
  • Small scissors
  • Eyebrow Shaver
  • Mirror
  • Proper lighting to see your face clearly

Step 1: Comb your brow, and tame it with screw brush

Whether you have natural, unshaved brows or trimmed eyebrow, start with combing your brow with screw brush. Move the comb brush upward around the center of your face and downward or outward toward the end your brow.
This is an important step, as it will give you a good idea of the brow shape you have right now.

Recommended brush: Chikuhodo GSN-14 Screw

GSN-14 Chikuhodo Screw brush,  $9

Step 2: Design your brow shape following the golden rule

Now that your brow is ready for the next step, let’s design your eyebrow. Use the eyebrow pencil to draw 3 dots on the brows based on the picture below, and connect them to form the shape.

The dot #1

Eyebrow shaping step #1. decide where your brow starts
Eyebrow shaping step #1. decide where your brow starts

This is where your eyebrow starts. Draw an imaginary line that connects where your inner eyelid starts and the side of your nose top, and place dot where the imaginary line and your brow meets.

The dot #2

Eyebrow shaping tutorial Step #2
Eyebrow tutorial #2: find where your brow should end

Where your brow ends. Draw an imaginary line again, this time from the side of the nose and the outer side of your eyelid. Place a dot on the point where the imaginary line and your natural brow crosses.

The last dot, #3

Eyebrow shaping tutorial Step #3-1
Eyebrow shaping step #3-1. Choose the position of the top of your brow arch.

Now, this is the peak of your brow. As shown in the picture #3, the peak should be placed between the end of the white of the eye and the black eye.

After placing the third dot, connect your dot together and form an eyebrow shape.
You should try experimenting with your eyebrow peak position, to see what works the best for you. Take a selfie and compare it to your ideal brow.
Also, asking your friends for a feedback is a good idea.
Once you’re happy with the eyebrow design, move on to the next step.

Step #3: Shave the unnecessary part of your brow

Eyebrow hair maintenance: where to shave and keep.
Eyebrow hair maintenance: where to shave and keep.

Shave the brow hair outside of the brow shape you drew in the step #2. There are about 4 areas that you can work on.

  • #A The Inner eyebrow hair at the center of your face
  • #B Corner and underside of the end of the brow
  • #C Lower side of the brow to make it thinner
  • #D Any baby hair around the brows
*CAUTION TIP* You should not shave the top of your brow.

If you shave the top of your brow, it would ruin the natural shape, and make the facial muscle of your brow visible. Be aware, for this could make you look weird or older. Also, prominent brow muscle can happen as well if you tend to raise your eyebrow often. You can either wait for your eyebrow hair to grow back, or you could cover it with the eyebrow powder.

Step #4: Cut long eyebrow hair

Use the comb brush to hold your brow hair upward for the inner brow and downward toward the end of the eyebrow, and trim the hair that it too long.

The brushes below are recommended for this step! Both brushes introduced below has a clear translucent end so you can see through the brush head while working on your eyebrow.

Check out some of the best eyebrow brush selection from A-Janaika Japan shop below!

  • Chikuhodo RR-B2 Brush & Comb: $8
    Chikuhodo RR-B2 Brush & Comb, RR-Series
    Chikuhodo RR-B2 Brush & Comb for taking care of your eyebrow

    Length: 135mm,
    Material: Horse hair
    The long, curvy outline of the handle is elegantly balanced design for the ease of application. Hair: Tanuki & Horse.

  • Koyudo AG010 Brush & Comb: $8
    Koyudo AG series eyebrow Brush & Comb
    Koyudo AG series eyebrow Brush & Comb

    Length: 130mm,
    Material: Horse hair
    An ideal entry model to start using a makeup brush. Enjoy affordable good quality Kumano brushes from Koyudo’s AG series.
    Tame your eyebrow & eyelash and create natural, beautiful look with this two-in-one brush.

  • Chikuhodo SH-8 Brush & Comb: $8 
    Chikuhodo SH-08 Eyebrow brush & Comb with long handle.
    Chikuhodo SH-08 Eyebrow Brush & Comb with a long handle.

    Length: 145mm
    Material: Horse hair
    This brush has the longest handle of them all, making it easier to work on your eyebrow.

Step #5: Complete!

Now you’re all set to try out various new eyebrow style!

In the next article, we will guide you through how to try out various eyebrow style based on your mood and new trend!

Written & Directed by Namiko Fujiyama
Illustration & Translation by Hiro Kano

We’re writing about traditional crafts, Kumano brush, makeup and beauty with the cooperation of manufacturers and workshop on this blog. Please Like, share and leave a comment below!

Also, please let us know if there are certain topics you’d like to see covered in here by emailing me at kano@a-janaika-japan.com. We’re always open to the request!

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